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MS Plan A: Modeling Nearshore Hydrodynamic Processes in a Reef System with a R

Xinyi Zhang
Master’s Student
Department of Ocean and Research Engineering
University of Hawaii at Manoa

**This defense will be held in person (POST 418) and over Zoom**
Meeting ID: 859 1029 7666
Password: XinyiMS
https://hawaii.zoom.us/j/85910297666

Coastal hydrodynamics in reef–lagoon–channel systems are controlled by complex interactions among wave transformation, breaking, and circulation. Although previous numerical studies have advanced process-based understanding, a systematic evaluation of XBeach for such systems remains limited. This study assesses the capability of XBeach to simulate hydrodynamics in an idealized reef system with a rip channel, using large-scale laboratory datasets under irregular wave conditions. The analysis evaluates the influence of model formulation, grid resolution, and breaking parameters based on their effects on hydrodynamic variables, including wave heights (total, sea-swell, and infragravity), wave setup, and current velocity.
Results show that XBeach reproduces the main hydrodynamic features well, but performance depends strongly on numerical configuration. Overall, the surfbeat mode (XB-SB) performs better than the non-hydrostatic mode (XB-NH) for most cases and is more computationally efficient. XB-SB captures sea-swell wave height, setup, and cross-shore velocity well, while infragravity waves and alongshore velocity are less accurately reproduced. XB-NH shows advantages under extremely shallow conditions. These findings establish a practical hydrodynamic modeling framework for reef-channel coastal systems

Event Sponsor
Ocean and Resources Engineering, Mānoa Campus

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